If i pull up my emergency break, the light comes on, but it doesn't work. i drive a 5 speed, so i need the emergency break! how do i fix this?
Could be that it is disconnected, or seized inside the cable. May have to be replaced. I most commonly run into it being seized or broken inside the cable but you never really know. Take it to a reputable mechanic to check and be sure.
tell us what kind of car or truck you have and we will be able to do a lot more to help you. Most emergency brakes are cable operated and have a slack adjuster some where in them. with out some information on the kind of vehicle you have I can't be specific. Also some vehicles with 4 wheel disc brakes I have seen the caliper go bad like on late 70's to 85 buick Rivera's and 82 and up Comoros and Firebirds.
Well you need to check the cable, it runs to your rear breaks. You can adjust it if possible. Or it could be replaced. Did you just get the car, did this just happening, did you hit something? questions that you need to research
See a mechanic. There are too many possibilities for anyone to help you on YA.
Of course, that won't stop the ignorant from offering their opinions.
By the way, it's a BRAKE, not a break.
all it might need is adjusted or the back brakes needs adjusted up a little bit tighter against the drums.
Tuesday, March 31, 2009
1994-1997 Accord EGR Question?
This is for sure a tech question..
Keep in mind the reason I started looking into my EGR valve was because I had a check engine light on and it gave me a code of 12. When I refereed to my Haynes manual it called for testing of the vacuum and the lift sensor( the EGR valve).
Today, I tested it the way the haynes manual said and according to all tests.. everything is normal except for one oddity. Also keep in mind at this point the check engine light was not on at all the entire time.
Ok.. So I checked for a vacuum from the control.. NONE.
I put 8 inches of mercury vacuum on the EGR valve.. it held the vacuum with no problem. The oddity was that the car was supposed to stall at 8 in/mg .... it did not stall though it did sound like it wanted to.
Anyways.. after doing these tests everything seemed normal.. So with the fact that the check engine light was not on.. does this mean I have an intermittent problem? Also whats the chances of it being electrical?
Has anyone seen these same symptoms before?
The EGR valve only opens at higher engine speeds, not at idle. At higher engine speeds, enough vacuum is created to open this device. The main thing is to either keep the valve clean, or disconnect it entirely. It is used to reduce pollution. You can accomplish more pollution -wise by installing a set of Iridium or Iridium/ Titanium plugs and disconnecting the valve. If there is an electrical connector, then you can't disconnect the valve without triggering the computer. Good Luck!!!
Keep in mind the reason I started looking into my EGR valve was because I had a check engine light on and it gave me a code of 12. When I refereed to my Haynes manual it called for testing of the vacuum and the lift sensor( the EGR valve).
Today, I tested it the way the haynes manual said and according to all tests.. everything is normal except for one oddity. Also keep in mind at this point the check engine light was not on at all the entire time.
Ok.. So I checked for a vacuum from the control.. NONE.
I put 8 inches of mercury vacuum on the EGR valve.. it held the vacuum with no problem. The oddity was that the car was supposed to stall at 8 in/mg .... it did not stall though it did sound like it wanted to.
Anyways.. after doing these tests everything seemed normal.. So with the fact that the check engine light was not on.. does this mean I have an intermittent problem? Also whats the chances of it being electrical?
Has anyone seen these same symptoms before?
The EGR valve only opens at higher engine speeds, not at idle. At higher engine speeds, enough vacuum is created to open this device. The main thing is to either keep the valve clean, or disconnect it entirely. It is used to reduce pollution. You can accomplish more pollution -wise by installing a set of Iridium or Iridium/ Titanium plugs and disconnecting the valve. If there is an electrical connector, then you can't disconnect the valve without triggering the computer. Good Luck!!!
Can you change your oil too many times?
i usually change mine every 1500 miles or every 2 months
no, it usually depends on how you drive. Forced induction cars need changes more frequently
If the car is a 1950s or 60s model car you are fine doing it that often. If it is a newer fuel injected car you are wasting your money you can go to at least 3000 miles or even longer. My 05 goes to 5000 miles and the oil isn't even that dirty when I have it changed.
You can never change your engine too often, but every 1500 miles is a bit too soon if you consider your pocketbook. Most auto manufacturers recommend an oil change every 3000 to 5000 miles.
Its your money but 1500 miles is to frequent now days with the cars running cleaner you could safely run to 5000 miles on a oil change depending on the environment but at least 3000 miles under serve duty.
1500 miles is to often. Try changing to 3000 miles or every 3 months.
They say every 3000 miles, but i think what you are doing is ok. After all some cars might require changes more frequently.
1500 miles is pretty frequent. 3000 would easily work for most cars.
no, it usually depends on how you drive. Forced induction cars need changes more frequently
If the car is a 1950s or 60s model car you are fine doing it that often. If it is a newer fuel injected car you are wasting your money you can go to at least 3000 miles or even longer. My 05 goes to 5000 miles and the oil isn't even that dirty when I have it changed.
You can never change your engine too often, but every 1500 miles is a bit too soon if you consider your pocketbook. Most auto manufacturers recommend an oil change every 3000 to 5000 miles.
Its your money but 1500 miles is to frequent now days with the cars running cleaner you could safely run to 5000 miles on a oil change depending on the environment but at least 3000 miles under serve duty.
1500 miles is to often. Try changing to 3000 miles or every 3 months.
They say every 3000 miles, but i think what you are doing is ok. After all some cars might require changes more frequently.
1500 miles is pretty frequent. 3000 would easily work for most cars.
My car makes a ticking sound, is this normal?
I recently bought a 2003 Honda Civic Ex Coupe Manual Transmission, about 106,000 miles on it, engine runs great, purrs, no lights are on, everything seems PERFECT about the car, except, I notice a ticking sound, and I'm wondering if it is normal or not.
For a better description of the ticking sound, it only does it about 1/3rd of the time I'm slowing down or accelerating, and it ONLY makes the noise if I'm taking off from a stop, or slowing down to a stop, and not all of the time, about 1/3rd as I said. Now, it seems to do it more often in reverse, from a stop starting to back up. It sounds like it is coming from the center of my car from front to back, and maybe a little to the passenger side, its a definate click sound, there is no car movement from it, no shake, or jar, or anything, just a click. It could be perfectly normal, idk, just seeing if anyone has an idea.
Loose heat shields on the exhaust system.
They spot weld them on at the factory, the weld breaks, they vibrate, they warm up and expand with exhaust heat, "Tick" , then cool down, "more Ticking" .
Honda loves putting heat shields on the exhaust system to lessen the transferred heat between the exhaust and the undercarriage of the car, and the ground, in case you park in a pile of dry leaves or something.
Locate the offending heat shield, remove it, tack weld it back on, etc.
I wouldn't worry about it. It could be something shaking around in the AC, could be a part just hitting against something, a loose bolt... It could be a million things. If youre worried about it, take it to a mechanic. Sullivan Tire is really good about just looking at things and giving free estimates.
Sounds like it might be your valve lifters.They might need a slight adjustment or sometimes a slightly thicker viscosity oil will quiet noisy lifters.
Check your exhaust flange gasket, often a leaking gasket at the head or the collector will make a ticking noise.
Check the oil and transmission fluid, that ticking could be the last sound your engine makes before it seizes up.
Check your brake pads. They have a clicker mechanism that alerts you to replace them.
NOOOOOOO check oil now
For a better description of the ticking sound, it only does it about 1/3rd of the time I'm slowing down or accelerating, and it ONLY makes the noise if I'm taking off from a stop, or slowing down to a stop, and not all of the time, about 1/3rd as I said. Now, it seems to do it more often in reverse, from a stop starting to back up. It sounds like it is coming from the center of my car from front to back, and maybe a little to the passenger side, its a definate click sound, there is no car movement from it, no shake, or jar, or anything, just a click. It could be perfectly normal, idk, just seeing if anyone has an idea.
Loose heat shields on the exhaust system.
They spot weld them on at the factory, the weld breaks, they vibrate, they warm up and expand with exhaust heat, "Tick" , then cool down, "more Ticking" .
Honda loves putting heat shields on the exhaust system to lessen the transferred heat between the exhaust and the undercarriage of the car, and the ground, in case you park in a pile of dry leaves or something.
Locate the offending heat shield, remove it, tack weld it back on, etc.
I wouldn't worry about it. It could be something shaking around in the AC, could be a part just hitting against something, a loose bolt... It could be a million things. If youre worried about it, take it to a mechanic. Sullivan Tire is really good about just looking at things and giving free estimates.
Sounds like it might be your valve lifters.They might need a slight adjustment or sometimes a slightly thicker viscosity oil will quiet noisy lifters.
Check your exhaust flange gasket, often a leaking gasket at the head or the collector will make a ticking noise.
Check the oil and transmission fluid, that ticking could be the last sound your engine makes before it seizes up.
Check your brake pads. They have a clicker mechanism that alerts you to replace them.
NOOOOOOO check oil now
Is it inadvisable to use both A/C and recirculation buttons at the same time?
No. The people who manufactured your car would not have allowed such a setting if it were not advisable. The deal is, like others have said, when you use the recirculate setting, the air inside the car is being cooled, and recirculated, which actually helps the A/C by keeping it from working so hard. If you are constantly cooling hot outside air before it is brought into the car, the A/C has to work harder to keep the inside of the car cool. The down side to using the recirculate setting is that the air inside the car isn't replaced with fresh outside air as much, so if you have a car full of sweaty people, smokers, people with smelly shoes, or other sources of odors, those odors stay in the car instead of being replaced with fresh outside air. In damp weather, it's better not to use the recirculate setting since the inside of the windows tends to fog up more because of the moisture generated by your breathing. One good thing about the recirculate feature is that if you are about to pull in behind a smokey diesel truck or other fume-belching vehicle, you can set the controls to recirculate so your car doesn't suck as much of that crap into the car.
No, not at all. If you recirculate the air in the car it will allow it to get colder in the cabin. On really hot days you should run it on max with at least one window part way down then when it starts cooling off and you run the hot air out, roll up the window and switch it to recirculate.
the first guy who answered your question is wrong. it is perfectly fine to use recirc with ac. the ac will actually blow colder with this setting
No. It will suck the colder cabin air back in and actually make for colder ac. A lot of cars have a Max Ac setting which activates the recirc.
Yes not only will it make it colder but will be easier on the compressor which will not have to run as much win win
well it could blow some fuses, or mess up some wiring but. i would'nt advise it.
No, not at all. If you recirculate the air in the car it will allow it to get colder in the cabin. On really hot days you should run it on max with at least one window part way down then when it starts cooling off and you run the hot air out, roll up the window and switch it to recirculate.
the first guy who answered your question is wrong. it is perfectly fine to use recirc with ac. the ac will actually blow colder with this setting
No. It will suck the colder cabin air back in and actually make for colder ac. A lot of cars have a Max Ac setting which activates the recirc.
Yes not only will it make it colder but will be easier on the compressor which will not have to run as much win win
well it could blow some fuses, or mess up some wiring but. i would'nt advise it.
I
I need to get my truck painted, I need a tune up, and i'd like to put bigger tires on. How much would it cost me??
I've got a 05 dodge ram 3500 extended cab long bed, 4wd, dulley,
if you want a cheapy paint job take it to earl shybe or macco for 500$, tune up 150$ make if your just doing plugs and wires, and tires depends on what size and make so 200-500 a tires it could run you
painting couldd be around six thousand dollars for that big ole truck
tune up i dont know what you meant by that adding perfromance parts or checking to make sure everythings running ok walmart checks your car for problems for free tires might be 200 dollars a a peace it really depends on brand
Depends on where you take the truck. Could be several thousand dollars or more.
I've got a 05 dodge ram 3500 extended cab long bed, 4wd, dulley,
if you want a cheapy paint job take it to earl shybe or macco for 500$, tune up 150$ make if your just doing plugs and wires, and tires depends on what size and make so 200-500 a tires it could run you
painting couldd be around six thousand dollars for that big ole truck
tune up i dont know what you meant by that adding perfromance parts or checking to make sure everythings running ok walmart checks your car for problems for free tires might be 200 dollars a a peace it really depends on brand
Depends on where you take the truck. Could be several thousand dollars or more.
Installing universal muffler on my car?
can i install my muffler using jb weld?
unfortunatley no.
you need to be safe up to around 800 degrees for a muffler connection (not that it will get that hot) but JB weld is probably only good for up to about 400 degrees and will degrade around 250.
clamps and/or welding are the only way u can go.
JB weld is an amazing substance but no. The heat and vibration of an exhaust with crack it. Just get some exhaust clamps they're not very expensive.
echaust clamps.. but dpending on the car, it may not run properly
unfortunatley no.
you need to be safe up to around 800 degrees for a muffler connection (not that it will get that hot) but JB weld is probably only good for up to about 400 degrees and will degrade around 250.
clamps and/or welding are the only way u can go.
JB weld is an amazing substance but no. The heat and vibration of an exhaust with crack it. Just get some exhaust clamps they're not very expensive.
echaust clamps.. but dpending on the car, it may not run properly
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